THE GADWAL SAREE

The Gadwal saree derives its name from the district of Jogulamba Gadwal (located in Telangana) - the place of its origin. The specialty of these sarees lies in the fact that they are completely handcrafted. There are different kinds of Gadwali saree such as pure silk, but the most common variety is that the body is made of cotton, the border of silk, and the pallu consists of intricate zari work. The material is extremely lightweight. The Gadwal Saree is not just a beautiful piece of clothing, but also a symbol of Telangana’s rich culture, and the proficiency of its skilled weavers. 

THE HISTORY OF THE GADWAL SAREE

The Gadwal saree can be dated back to about 200 years ago. Gadwal used to be the capital of a small kingdom called Samasthana. Around this time, weavers from nearby coastal areas migrated to Gadwal. Maharani Adhi Lakshmi Devamma, the queen at that time, greatly patronized their art and weaving skills. And that is how the Gadwali saree or the Gadwali fabric came into existence. During this time, the saree was not known as Gadwali - instead, it had another name: ‘Mathiampeta’. Initially, the Mathiampeta or the Gadwali industry was a local one at best - it traded mostly with neighbouring areas. Gradually, however, the Mathiampeta started to gain global recognition. And it came to be known as the Gadwali saree, named after the place of Gadwal. It is interesting that the Gadwali weavers had, at some point, gone to Banaras to perfect their weaving skills. Despite that, the Gadwali saree got its own identity, and it has retained its Telugu uniqueness all along.

UNKNOWN FACTS ABOUT THE GADWAL SAREE

1. THE PERFECT BLEND - The body of the Gadwal saree is usually made of light, comfortable cotton, while the borders include intricate silk designs. This coexistence of cotton and silk ensures both comfort and style. It also adds greatly to the unique appeal of the Gadwal. 

2. TIME CONSUMPTION - The Gadwal saree can take from 10 to 30 days to make, depending on how complex the design is. A Gadwal saree can even have as much as 100 threads per inch. 

3. GI TAG - The Gadwal saree has been awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, and it has been recognized as a geographical indication of the state of Telangana.

DID YOU KNOW?

In Telangana, the Brahmotsavas of Tirupati begins with the deity’s idol being draped in a Gadwal saree. It is known as the ‘Sesha Vasthram’, and it is placed on Tirupati’s altar as an offering. 

THE WEAVING PROCESS

Traditionally, the Gadwal saree is woven using the interlocked weft, also known as the ‘kupaddam’ or ‘kuttu’ technique. Cotton yarn is used for the body, while silk is used to make the borders and the pallu. Throw shuttle or pit frames are used often to make the process easier. One of the features that makes the Gadwal saree stand apart is the interlocking of two types of joints. The vertical joint is used to interlock the body to the border, and the horizontal one is used to attach the body to a pallu. The cotton and silk yarns are woven separately, and the cotton is dyed to achieve the desired colour. It is also stretched on a warping drum to create the foundation of the saree. The weavers, while weaving the sarees, often sit in pits to operate the looms - this allows greater control over the weaving process. The pallu is always attached separately, and the complete product is then washed, dried and ironed. The making process is always a combination of traditional plus modern techniques. 

THE MOTIFS 

The most common patterns used in the designs of the Gadwali saree often narrate a story. They are inspired by nature, architecture as well as ancient Indian art. There are floral patterns, like roses, jasmines, etc, as well as geometric shapes, like diamonds or squares. Animal motifs are frequently seen too, such as those of lions, elephants or horses. There are temple motifs as well, which portray Indian architecture, and expertly designed domes, pillars and arches. Fruits like mangoes are also shown. The Gadwali saree motifs, unique in their identity as they are, do often show the influence of Persian or Mughal Era. 

WHEN SHOULD YOU WEAR THE GADWAL SAREE?

The Gadwal saree is an extremely versatile one, and you can wear it anywhere, from casual gatherings to wedding anniversaries. But you must remember the occasion, and on the basis of that, you can pick and style your Gadwal. 

1. Weddings - You Dalways wear a Gadwali to a wedding. Try to pick one with a lot of zari work. It’ll add to the grandeur of the event. It can be paired with heavy gold jewellery, such as jhumkas. You can opt for the same to wear at festivals such as Navratri or Dussehra. 

2. Formal events - If you’re confused as to what you should wear to a seminar or conference, don’t hesitate to opt for a simple and elegant Gadwali saree, with subtle designs. Keep your jewellery chic, and not too flashy. 

3. Pujas/rituals - If you’re wearing a saree to a puja, find a Gadwal paithani with temple or floral motifs. It’ll be a meaningful yet stylish setup, and give you a distinct ethnic look. 

4. Every day - Want to wear sarees more often on a day-to-day basis, but can’t find one convenient enough? Well, a simple cotton Gadwal saree is the way to go, then! It’s easy and light enough to carry, and it is also stylish. 

5. Family gatherings - If you want to wear a Gadwal saree to a family gathering, opt for muted, warm colours. 
   

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR GADWAL SAREE 

• Dry cleaning - Your Gadwal saree should always be dry cleaned, and if that’s not possible, try to wash it by hand in cold water. 
• No bleaching - Do NOT use detergent or bleach to clean your Gadwal saree. It can cause fading, as well as the bleeding of colours.
• Storage - Keep your Gadwali saree in a dry, cool place. Fold it in a paper. Keep it away from the direct heat of the sun. 
• Ironing - Use a low heat iron to avoid damaging the fabric. 
• Avoid wringing - Do NOT wring your Gadwal while washing it, as it can cause creases and wrinkles. 

If taken care of properly, your Gadwal saree can last for generations!

 THE GADWAL SAREE IN POPULAR CULTURE 

 A very popular saree from South India, the Gadwal saree is often portrayed in both South Indian as well as Bollywood movies. It is also mentioned in literature, TV shows, etc:

Literature – In Arundhati Roy’s God of Small Things, a heart-touching novel set in South India, we find mentions of the Gadwali saree. We can also find the same in Jhumpa Lahiri’s The Namesake.

 TV shows – The Gadwali saree can be seen in popular Hindi TV shows, such as ‘Kahaani Ghar Ghar Ki’, or ‘Bahubali: The Lost Legends’.

 Bollywood films – In films like ‘Devdas’ or ‘English Vinglish’, we can often find the lead actresses sporting beautiful Gadwali sarees.

The Gadwali saree has had its spotlight on the red carpet as well, including that of the Lakme Fashion Week and many celebrities like Vidya Balan and Sonam Kapoor have worn them to such glamorous events.

WHAT TO KEEP IN MIND WHILE BUYING GADWAL SAREES ONLINE

• Remember to look for reputed online stores selling sarees, and those that specialize in Indian wear.
• Always do a quality check.
• An authentic Gadwal saree is about 5.5-6.3 metres, so be sure to pay attention to the length.
• Watch out for certification tags, like the Silk Mark.
• Pay attention to the return and exchange policies.
• ALWAYS read customer reviews.