Ikat Silk Sarees

Ikkat Sarees 

The Ikkat saree is a traditional textile originating from Southeast Asia, particularly known for its unique dyeing techniques. The term ‘ikkat’ refers to the process of dyeing threads before implementing them on the main fabric, and binding them to create intricate patterns. Indian regions that are famous for their Ikkat sarees include Telangana, Gujarat, and Odisha. The saree is usually made of cotton or silk.

The origin of the Ikkat Saree

There is no specific location or time period historians have been able to attribute to the origin of the Ikkat saree, though it is most commonly associated with Indonesia. The technique of the weaving of the saree is believed to have emerged as early as the 6th century. In Odisha, its emergence is usually connected to the Lord Jagannatha cult, which was an age-old tradition of the region. Primarily, four colors were used - white, black, yellow, and red. It is believed that these four colors had a distinct connection to the Vedas. Nevertheless, much of the temple architecture in ancient Odisha is also believed to have been influenced by Ikkat patterns. The highly specialized craft has traveled a number of trade routes including the Silk Route, where it was even used as a currency. 

General facts about the Ikkat saree

The weaving and dyeing techniques - Grass, or wax-treated cotton is used to bind loose threads together. These threads are bleached, and then dyed. This is usually a resist dyeing method, which means that specific sections of the material are tied together to prevent the dye from reaching those areas. After the bound threads are dyed in vibrant color, the areas that resist the dye create intricate patterns. The dyed threads are arranged on a loom, and the dyed warps and wefts are set up according to the required design. The final step includes interlacing the dyed threads to create the final fabric. There are three types of dyeing technique: the warp Ikkat, the weft Ikkat, and the double Ikkat. The warp Ikkat process includes the dyeing of only the longitudinal warp threads, while the weft technique means only the horizontal weft threads are dyed. The double ikkat process includes the dyeing of both warp and weft techniques. 

The regional variations - In Odisha, the Ikkat saree features very subtle designs, and the sarees are mostly of cotton. The colors are muted, and motifs include floral and paisley patterns. In Gujarat, the Ikkat appears in vibrant shades and bolder motifs. Telangana is known for its silk Ikkat sarees, which have a luxurious feel and showcase elaborate motifs. 

The motifs - Ikkat sarees are known to have a wide variety of motifs, which include geometric patterns, floral motifs, religious symbols, as well as tribal and folk designs. Lotus and mangoes, as well as elephants, peacocks and fish, appear frequently among other Ikkat patterns. Checks and stripes, as well as designs depicting daily tribal life can be seen as well. 

An eco-friendly choice - One of the special features of the Ikkat saree, which makes it a popular fashion choice even today, is its sustainable dyeing process. Traditionally, natural dyes were used to make Ikkat sarees, and this makes it a more eco-friendly option, as compared to other weaving traditions, which might use synthetic dyes. 

Global fame - The Ikkat saree has managed to bag a place for itself in the world of international fashion as well, outside of India. It has also been given the Geographical Indication or GI status, which highlights its rich artistry. 

The Return of the Ponchampally Ikkat

Ponchampally is a village in Telangana, known for its tradition of Ikkat weaving. It used to be a thriving cottage industry, with skilled artisans. However, the industry faced a decline during the course of the last few decades or so. Most prominent causes include industrialization, and changing consumer preferences. A steady effort to revive the art of Ikkat weaving in Ponchampally began some time around the 2000s, which was influenced by the steadily growing popularity of sustainable and eco-friendly fashion choices. Initiative was therefore taken to rekindle the interest in the craftsmanship of the local weavers. Festivals, exhibitions, and collaborations with modern-day fashion designers have definitely helped as well. While problems do remain even today, there is a better hope that the Ponchampally Ikkat will regain its position of glory in the fashion world. 

The Place of Ikkat in Contemporary Fashion

The rich tradition of Ikkat weaving has influenced many modern-day fashion designers, including Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Anita Dongre, and Ritu Kumar. Sabyasachi Mukherjee is often seen incorporating Ikkat patterns and Ikkat-influenced designs in his collections, especially the bridal ones. Traditional motifs are blended with modern ideas, producing a unique fusion. Anita Dongre is known for her promotion of eco-friendly fashion, and it is hardly surprising that she has used Ikkat designs in her collections. It is also fascinating that modern clothing brands, such as Huem, which is essentially a streetwear brand, has incorporated Ikkat patterns into their urban attire, such as jackets. This effort, therefore, of staying true to our roots and keeping our rich heritage in mind whilst embracing modernity, is truly laudable. 

The Ikkat has stolen the spotlight at major stages including global ones, such as the New York Fashion Week, the Lakme Fashion Week, and the India Couture Week. Designers like Payal Khandwala and Akira Isogawa have showcased Ikkat-inspired pieces, bringing Indian craftsmanship to a global level. 

3 Times Our Favorite Bollywood Stars Dazzled in Ikkat Sarees

Vidya Balan’s ‘Sherni’ look - Vidya Balan is known for her impressive collection of traditional attire. During the promotion of ‘Sherni’, the actress wore a printed Ikkat saree. The outfit featured off-white motifs, and a maroon silk border. Vidya Balan paired the saree with a red blouse, and wore her hair up. 

Aishwarya Rai’s off-white Ikkat look - Aishwarya Rai once wore an off-white and gold Ikkat saree to an award show. The saree borders in gold and red, and the actress wore a gold blouse and golden jewelry to go with it. 

Shilpa Shetty’s dazzling Ikkat moment - In an event held in Bangalore, Shilpa Shetty wore a beautiful red Ikkat saree, with a golden border and white motifs. She also wore a black blouse, and styled her hair in a bun with flowers in the traditional Indian style. For jewelry, the actress opted for a heavy gold necklace and a pair of gold jhumkas. 

When and How you Should Wear the Ikkat Saree

The Ikkat saree is a great choice for a variety of events, including formal events religious festivals:

For religious occasions - The Ikkat saree is undoubtedly one of the best choices for any sort of religious or ritualistic event. The costume is often connected to purity and auspiciousness, and since it is not too flashy in style, it makes for the perfect wear. You can go for muted colors such as white or light yellow. Wear your hair down, or in a simple bun (you can add flowers to it) and keep your jewelry simple. Chokers or a pair of simple jhumkas will definitely look amazing. 

For festivals - You can always wear an Ikkat during a festival, say, Diwali, and you’ll look fantastic doing it! Go for richer colors, such as maroon or deep blue. It will add to the festive spirit. 

Formal events - You can also wear an Ikkat saree to a formal event. For example, a black Ikkat can be worn for a daytime function. 

Work - You can wear the Ikkat to your office or workplace as well. Go for more subtle shades, such as pastel pink or mint green. These colors will help maintain a polished and sophisticated look. 

How To Take Care of your Ikkat Saree

Wash by hand - Wash your Ikkat saree by hand. Soak it in cold water. Do NOT squeeze or twist it. Avoid machine washing.

Use mild detergent - Don’t use very strong chemicals or soap solutions. Use a mild detergent. 

Low-heat ironing - Don’t use a very high temperature while ironing your Ikkat saree. It might cause permanent creases. Use a low-heat iron. Put a thin cloth between the saree and the iron to avoid direct heat. 

Avoid direct sunlight - Don’t expose your Ikkat saree to intense sunlight, especially for long periods of time. 

Flat dry - Avoid hanging your Ikkat for drying. Lay it on a flat surface instead. 

Storage - Fold your saree carefully, and store it in a cotton bag. Keep it in a cool, dry place. 

IndyVogue specializes in Silk Mark Certified Ikkat Sarees. Read our blog to know more about Silk mark Saree care.

What to Keep in Mind While Shopping for Ikkat Sarees Online

Authenticity - Purchase your saree from reputable sites. Look out for customer reviews and ratings. 

Quality - Always remember to check the fabric, the colors, etc. from the description given at the shopping site. Look out for fabric composition, and color representation.

Return policy - Read the terms and conditions, especially with regard to the return policy, before placing your order. This way, you can always have the option of returning your saree and getting a refund if it is not up to your expectation. 

Customer reviews - Read the reviews of customers who have purchased the product before you, to get a fair idea of the quality, customer service, etc.